Showing posts with label SloveniaTrip2010. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SloveniaTrip2010. Show all posts

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Trip to Graz/Gradec, Austria

The second biggest Austrian city

Click the photo below to see the map of our Slovenia tour 2010.

Sloveniatour 2010
Graz (Slovenian Gradec, with around 260.000 inhabitants) is the second biggest Austrian town and the last destination of our Slovenia tour 2010. I thought it would be great, if my girlfriend, who saw towns like Piran, Trieste, Bled and Maribor, also sees another medieval gem in this part of Europe. Graz is not only the hometown of the actor and soon to be former governator Arnold Alois Schwarzenegger, it's also one of the European cities with the best preserved medieval centers, which is even protected by the UNESCO. From the 12th to the early 20th century Graz used to be the capital city of Styria, a duchy within the Austrian monarchy (German Steiermark, Slovenian Štajerska), which included big parts of today's northeastern Slovenia, including my hometown Maribor. For a long time Graz was the economic and cultural center of this part of the world. It also had one of the first universities in the area and many famous Slovenians in the past (and even today) got their education in Graz, that's why the city is also important for the history of Slovenians (more info about Graz here).

FUN FACT: The name "Graz" originates from Old Slovenian "Gradec" (pronounced Grah·dets), which means "Small castle". Interestingly, "Maribor" (my hometown) originates from Old German "Marchburg", which means "Castle in the border region". We should've swapped the names or something. Well, this just proves that in the past Slovenians and Germans used to live on the both sides of the border.

Now you know, why I had to bring my girlfriend there. I'm sorry, this post is photo intensive, but I really like Graz's old town and want to show you all the beautiful spots. See my 4o photos of Graz, Austria's second biggest city:

Our trip started near Maribor and lead us over the border to Austria.

We needed about 35min and we reached the suburbs.

We were lucky to find an empty parking spot. A bit far from the center, but still ok.

We had to walk like 15min along this road, where many immigrants live.

On a Bosnian restaurant. She's a singer and she surely has a lot to offer.

The river Mur that flows through Graz also flows through Slovenia, we call it Mura.

The Franciscan church originates from the 13th/14th century.

That's where we enter the center of Graz.

I knew where I wanted to bring my girlfriend: To the Town hall building.

But we got hungry and wanted to try a hot dog. The lady was very slow, but really friendly. It felt like my grandmother made the dog for me. And it tasted really good.

And this is one of the most impressive buildings in Graz: The Town hall or Rathaus.

My girlfriend and her cute skirt waving in the morning breeze.

The Hauptplatz or Main square in Graz.

The famous Herrengasse, which is the most popular street in the center if Graz.

That's how the tram looks like in Graz.

And then we went to have a nice dessert. It was getting hot and we saw a big queue of people in front of an ice cream shop called Charly Temmel. The common sense says, if there are many people around a certain shop, it has to be good. So we gave it a try.

The ice cream was really yummy! I highly recommend.

A view on the Herrengasse (literally Gentleman street).

The Mariensäule (Mary column) with a fountain.

The Stadtpfarrkirche church from the 18th century looks nice.

We left the Herrengasse and explored some other parts.

This part had a Mediterranean atmosphere.

I love cities, where people hang out and fill up the restaurants on the streets.

She's Taiwanese, yes. But I was the one who incited her to do this :P

Walking to the northern part of Graz, I wanted us to go atop the castle hill.

This part is lovely as well, but we went the wrong way.

Ehm... do you love yours? :P

Judging by the accent, this girl with the gnarly hairdo was American.

And we finally reached the stairways to the Schloßberg (Castle hill).

I had fears that my (usually) clumsy girlfriend will trip, that's why I had to escort her up like a bodyguard. I'm not really comfortable climbing such stairs, but it was really worth it.

The view was getting better and better.

And then: Ta-dah! The Town hall building.

And finally we were above the Graz old town.

She totally owned Graz, woohoo!

This is the Urhturm (Clock tower) located atop of Schloßberg (Castle hill).

The name Castle hill indicates a castle, which doesn't stand here for over 2 centuries. When Napoleon's army came to Graz in the early 19th century, they destroyed the old castle, but the citizens offered money in exchange to keep the Clock tower and Glockenturm (Bell tower) intact. The French invaders agreed and today the two towers are famous landmarks of the city.

A nice garden on top of the hill.

The whole area was lovely, however we couldn't stay here too long, the sky was getting gray and I suggested that we leave the top and go back down and home. I feared a storm.

It's gotten really gray, but luckily we weren't caught in the rain.

We passed by the Murinsel (Mur island), a floating platform, built in 2003.

The view on the Castle hill.

And then we came back and most of the cars were gone. Luckily ours wasn't.

Graz is definitely worth a visit. Even if your main destination is Slovenia, go for a day trip to Austria and visit this city. It's clean and very beautiful. Compared to Maribor, it attracts a lot of foreign immigrants, be it from ex Yugoslavia, Turkey, Africa or Asia. It will give you the feeling of being in a big cosmopolitan city, but with a small town atmosphere. However, compared to Vienna, Graz is a small town, so don't expect too much. Compared to Maribor, Graz is a big city.

My rating of Graz:

Great place for photos ✰✰✰✰✰
Well preserved and clean ✰✰✰✰✰
Toilets, parking, souvenirs ✰✰✰✰✰
Friendly to tourists ✰✰✰✰✰

Maribor: City of towers :Before [Slovenia Tour 2010] The tour ends here.

[My MARIBOR page][All photos by MKL, 2010]

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Maribor: City of towers

Proposing a new slogan for my hometown

The 58m tall bell towers of the Franciscan church, Maribor's famous landmark.

Maribor is a city of towers! I'm not sure if any other town in Slovenia has more towers than my hometown. Out of at least 9 medieval wall towers, 4 are preserved in Maribor today. Three are renovated (Water tower, Round tower and Jewish tower) and serve a new purpose, one is in plans to be renovated (Čeligi tower). And then there are the two 58m tall towers of the Franciscan church and the 57m tall tower of Maribor's cathedral. And let's not forget smaller towers, such as the one on the Maribor castle and on top of Narodni dom. I hope that the people of Maribor know how many treasures our hometown hides all over the old center. And we definitely need to preserve them.

The famous old wall towers of Maribor, from left to right: Water tower, Round tower, Jewish tower and Čeligi tower.

✰ Grajski trg/Castle square

Continuing from my previous two posts, where my girlfriend and I started off from Europark shopping mall and then walked along the river Drava to the Main square and from there down to Lent and to the Old Vine. After my girlfriend had her dose of wine and milk, we headed back up to the old medieval center of Maribor. The first part we had a brief stop was Castle square or Grajski trg. She wanted to shop a little and I had a cup of coffee and waited for her.

Castle square is one of the spots, where Maribor people like to hang out.

Maribor castle and the St. Florian monument.

On the left is a monument to St. Florian (Slovenian Sveti Florjan), built in the year 1700 after a devastating fire. Florian is the patron saint of firefighters. Today only the statue on top is original, everything else was reconstructed. This monument is a popular meeting point among people of Maribor, they would usually say "Se dobima pri Florjanu" ("We meet at the Florian").

✰ Mariborski grad/Maribor castle

The building at the center is Maribor castle or Maribor mansion (Slovenian Mariborski grad). This is currently one of the biggest and most significant historic buildings in Maribor and it has a very rich history. It was built in 1478 on the north eastern part of the wall and was meant as an additional fortification, that shall prevent Maribor from invasions from the Turks.

Maribor castle in the 17th century (by Vischer).

In the middle ages, the castle was much larger than it is today. It had four towers and a big yard, it was one of the most majestic castles in the Slovenian lands (see an old painting here). Unfortunately things turned bad for the whole structure in the 19th century. Three towers and the whole western part of the castle were removed and a street was laid out on the former inner yard. In the 1930s the castle was bought by the municipality of Maribor and became the home of the Regional Museum Maribor, which is still found there today. Inside the building, there's also one of the most beautiful staircases in Slovenia. The castle also had some prominent historic visitors, some of them however, could've stayed out of Maribor, if you ask me. Among them were: Leopold I., Holy Roman Emperor (17th century), Charles VI., Holy Roman Emperor (18th century), Maria Theresa, Empress of Austria (18th century), Paul I., Emperor of Russia (18th century), Pope Pius VI. (18th century), Franz Liszt, Hungarian composer, who had a concert in the castle (19th century) and Adolf Hitler, German fuhrer (1941), (Info: Source).

✰ Typical for Maribor

What happened to this castle is very typical for the whole history of Maribor: Things are constantly built, destroyed, fixed, rebuilt, changed, new things added, old things modified. That was the case centuries ago and it's still a common practice today. Most people in Maribor are probably used to that, but at one point we need to figure out what we really want Maribor to be. I'm rather for preserving the old, when it comes to the center, rather than destroying it and replacing it with new.

This is the Slovenian street (Slovenska ulica). Slovenians lived in Maribor since the beginning (first time mentioned in the 13th century), but until the first half of the 20th century the majority of the people in Maribor were of German descent and the official name was Marburg an der Drau.

The Castle square with the view on the Franciscan church.

Another view on Florjan and the Castle square with all the cafés.

Mariborska hranilnica (a bank) building from 1910. Oh, and another tower.

✰ More interesting parts of Maribor

This is my former secondary school named Prva Gimnazija. "Prva" means "first" and it's currently the oldest secondary school in Maribor. The building was completed in 1873.

In Maribor there are 3 secondary schools ("Prva, Druga, Tretja" meaning "First, Second, Third") and there's a rivalry between the First and Second (Third is totally out of the competition), because usually in the post WWII decades the Second had the smartest students, but in recent years the First caught up (especially when I was there in the late 1990s *cough, yeah...). That's why I believe that Prva is the best and most prestigious secondary school in Maribor and if you think you object to that, meet me tomorrow at 7am under the Old bridge and we can settle this.


In the park near my secondary school, there's a statue of one of Slovenia's most important historic figures: Rudolf Maister. He's especially important for the people of Maribor. As a general, he organized a Slovenian army, who took control of the town. He made sure, that in 1918, when the Austrian Monarchy fell apart, Maribor stayed under Slovenia (then part of the State of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs). He's seen as very important and honorable among Slovenes, but for Austrians, he's seen as a controversial historic figure (Info: Source).


Back from my former secondary school to another square near the castle. This one is called Freedom square (Slovenian Trg Svobode). That big sculpture is a monument to those who fought for freedom during WWII and was placed her in 1975. It was designed by Slavko Tihec, a famous Slovenian sculptor. People in Maribor call this sculpture Kojak (Slovenian Kodžak), which named after a very popular American TV series from the 1970s. The detective Theo Kojak, played by the Greek actor Telly Savalas, was bald and hence the nickname given to the round-shaped monument.

Nearby is another famous landmark in Maribor: The Franciscan church. It was completed in the year 1900 and is currently one of the tallest buildings in Maribor, 58m (Info: Source).

After the extensive sightseeing, my girlfriend and I went to Kolosej, the famous black box on the opposite side of Europark, the first multiplex in Maribor. We didn't mean to watch a movie, though. I invited my girlfriend to play some pool with me.

I had to teach her first, but she's really talented. She nearly won and I'm a damn good player. Guess I need to train her well and we can play doubles and win a lot of cash in the future.


Narodni dom (literally "National home") is one of Maribor's landmark buildings, whose tower is seen from many parts of the city. It was completed in 1898 and served as a cultural center of Slovenians in Maribor at a time, when Slovenians were under the Austrian Monarchy. It was also significant in the later years during WWI and II. Today the building is used for various cultural events and gatherings. I remember having dance lessons here and my senior prom was held here as well in the late 1990s (Info: Source).

Back to the river Drava and the Water tower. Read about it here>>

Sun setting in Maribor, late August, 2010.

We really had fun in Maribor, although we were mad tired from the whole Slovenia tour. I think, if my girlfriend could stay longer here, I would show her much more of Maribor. We could see more museums, we could go on top of the hills that surround the town and enjoy the views, we could walk along Drava, go to the Maribor park or go shopping (although that would be more for my girlfriend). Anyway, Maribor is really interesting, especially if you take some time and learn the history and then explore the city by foot. A (at least) three days long stay is a must, if you really wanna feel the relaxing atmosphere of the life in Maribor. And people are mostly friendly, usually much friendlier than those in Ljubljana, so I was told ;-) Oh, and don't forget the towers.

My rating of Maribor:

Great place for photos ✰✰✰✰✰
Well preserved and clean ✰✰✰✰✰
Toilets, parking, souvenirs ✰✰✰✰✰
Friendly to tourists ✰✰✰✰✰

Maribor Old Vine :Before [Slovenia Tour 2010] Next: Graz/Gradec>>

[My MARIBOR page][My SLOVENIA page][All photos by MKL, 2010, except the historic]